“Are there schools in
America?”
Yes, sweet child, yes
there are. And I was once an elementary schooler just like you! *cue gasps and
cries of shock throughout the room*
That was a slightly
exaggerated version of an exchange that took place during lunchtime with a 1st
grade class the other day (May 13th). The cuteness and silliness of
it all was just too overwhelming…
Actually, I thought
I’d take the chance to reply to several questions I get asked often by students
(and sometimes peers/older people) here:
- No, I don’t have a boyfriend/husband. This is by far the most common question!
- I like everyone! You’re all great! (In response to “who do you like?”)
- I am 22 years old.
- I live alone. (My family is back in America, and I’m the oldest sibling.)
- I don’t have any children—didn’t I say I was 22?? (No disrespect to those people who do have kids at 22, though, that’s just too early for me!)
- I bring my own lunch because I’m a vegetarian (albeit a seafood-eating one), and the school lunch often has meat in it.
- I’ve been studying Japanese since ninth grade, so over 8 ½ years now. Darn, guess I should be a lot better then!
- Cats are my favorite animal, and I also like bunnies and dolphins (I would say beluga whales but I don’t think they’d understand…)
- My favorite Japanese foods include unagi (eel), okonomiyaki (Hiroshima-style forever!), sushi, tempura, tamagoyaki, takoyaki, soba and udon.
- Yes, in America there are a lot of shops, fun places to see, and tasty foods! *insert examples here*
- I came to Japan because I love Japan and got interested in its culture from an early age through pop culture (anime/manga, music, etc.) Then my interest expanded.
Anyway, to continue
from where I left off… I was in the Kansai region for a Galneryus concert in
Osaka on Sunday April 20th, and stayed in Kobe with my friend from
study abroad who is now a JET—not an ALT, but helping coordinate the hordes of
other JETs in Kobe. Apparently it’s the city with the most JETs, which I can
definitely believe since the small foreigner bar where we went to see our
mutual study abroad friend’s cover band was packed with them. I was a little
bit jealous of the big community there, but there are 9 of us Interac folks in
Miyoshi, so I can’t really complain. I even know a few people who are alone in
their town!
Because I hadn’t
gotten to do anything for Passover and it felt weird (my dad’s side is Jewish,
so we always did Passover back home), I had contacted a tiny temple in the
city…it seems like it’s one of only two places for Jews to gather here, the
other being Tokyo, of course. It was a cozy place up near the northern side of
town where the mountain slopes begin, with a room for worship and a room for
dining. There weren’t many people—a couple of Americans, a couple of Orthodox
guys who may have recently come from Israel, and a couple of families with
small children. There was some prayer and reflection, and then a lunch of
delicious Israeli/Jewish dishes, some with Japanese ingredients like daikon
radish. Overall it was a pleasant time, if a bit awkward for a newcomer. That
week, after getting back home, I did end up cooking a makeshift matzo ball
soup, but with crushed Carr’s table water crackers instead of matzo meal…so
yeah, that was my Passover.
I explored Kobe that
day and the next morning with my friend, including the foreign import stores
and Kobe’s small Chinatown, one of three in Japan (the others are in Yokohama
and Nagasaki—now I’ve seen all three!). The next day we got a cool view of the
city from high up in Kobe’s city hall…for free! Travelers, take note. We then
went into Osaka for some frozen yogurt and some shopping at Forever 21 (both
pretty rare in Japan). After that, I went off on my own to revisit Tsuruhashi a.k.a.
Koreatown and sample all the kinds of kimchi ever made before heading over to see
Galneryus at the “Big Cat” concert venue that was conveniently…in a shopping
building? Anyway, I went in and had to pay for a drink ticket, and who do I see
at the bar but the only other foreigner at the show (it seemed)? I introduced
myself and got a concert buddy who spoke English and also was into this same
random Japanese power metal band! They’re pretty successful but I really only
know maybe three other people who like or have even heard of them.
Apparently Galneryus
doesn’t have openers, and they do three to four encores…crazy. Yes, many things
about them impressed me, but I guess the biggest thing was their endurance. I
kept expecting the singer Sho to lose his voice from all the belting, but he
didn’t even sound tired…Also, at the first encore, they all changed into
matching purple tees of their own band. SO adorkable. Another thing: some
people have this image of Japanese audiences as being quiet/polite/reserved …
maybe at some shows, but after seeing this show, along with a couple of other
concerts and part of a J-rock festival during study abroad, I can say that this
is just a stereotype and Japanese audiences are more than willing to move
around and throw their rock fists up. Aw yeah. \m/
So yeah, those guys ended up performing for almost three hours with only a few breaks in between…hats off to them! They gave such a good show that it made the super-long drive back home until nearly 3 A.M. worthwhile. This is a good sampling of their live performances (feel free to skip to 2:33 if you're short on time): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtNVuB_0Z6Q
The following weekend,
I drove down to Hiroshima with an ALT friend (also working in Miyoshi) on
Friday after work to meet some of the other Hiroshima ALTs and celebrate the
end of training for a small group of new people in our branch (who are finally
starting to teach this week, the 19th) at an okonomiyaki restaurant. (What’s okonomiyaki? Check it, yo: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okonomiyaki) After that, some of us split off to a gaijin
bar nearby and then ever fewer of us went for a good ol’ round of karaoke.
Somehow we even ended up singing “Poor Unfortunate Souls” in full Ursula mode…uhh,
go us? The new trainees, incidentally, were mostly placed in a town just under
an hour north from me and they’re a great, fun group, so I’ve already gotten to
meet up with them again a couple times.
My friend and I stayed
in a hostel and then walked along a lovely river to see the Peace Park and
Atomic Bomb Museum the next day. Neither of us had been in several years, and
the impact was still just as potent as when I had visited with a school group
during my first time in Japan at age 15, the summer after tenth grade. The
first part of the museum is hard enough, but the second part has the remains of
personal belongings, grotesque photos of the aftermath, and personal stories,
including the tale of Sadako and the thousand paper cranes, which I read about
in third grade. You know that thing called “white guilt?” Well, that—or rather,
American guilt—weighed me down like so many sandbags as I walked through the
exhibits. I am most definitely a pacifist, and though I know there were some
logical reasons for using the atom bomb, there were also many reasons not
to…including the deaths of so many innocent people. I just hate when war
destroys the lives of civilians…or really, lives in general.
At least it was a
beautiful day outside, and the Peace Park truly was peaceful…
Next came the long
sought-after Golden Week. Golden Week is not usually an actual week, it’s a
series of holidays that are clumped together, and the length of the break
varies year to year. This time we got a random Tuesday off (April 29th) and a four-day weekend
from Saturday to Tuesday…better than nothing! That Tuesday I had a bit of cabin
fever, so I drove up to visit some fellow new teachers in Matsue. It’s the
capital of Shimane Prefecture to our north, and is on the shore of Lake Shinji near
the Sea of Japan. It takes over 1.5 hours even by car, but I didn’t mind… nothing
else better to do, and I love exploring!
I told the other ALTs
they were really lucky, because Matsue is in a beautiful location (awesome lake
and mountain scenery, and not far from the beach), but is also pretty urban, at
least by Miyoshi standards. They at least have a university and a castle—more
than we can say! So we had lunch at a random tiny hole-in-the-wall we found
called Green’s Baby, then explored the castle, its grounds, and a nearby shrine
to Inari, the fox deity. We wrapped up with a stroll by the lake, and more
karaoke (are you seeing a karaoke pattern yet? I may be addicted).
The Friday before Golden Week, many schools
went on an ensoku (“long foot” a.k.a.
field trip), and my school that day was no exception. We walked to the
prefectural park, which took about 50 minutes. That wouldn’t have been so bad
if it weren’t sunny and cloudless that day. We were out in the sun playing
games and eating bentou and such for a really long time, and I didn’t notice a
burn coming on until too late. Moral of the story: I’m a moron and didn’t
expect sunburn time to come so soon. At least I had fun when the kids dragged
me onto the fuwa-fuwa dohmu, or fluffy dome, a bizarre cross
between a trampoline and a giant marshmallow… (???)
Most of my Golden Week
adventures were on Sunday and Monday. Going anywhere that required a travel
ticket was pretty much out of the question since people snap all that up way
ahead of time or it gets really pricey. So I went with a driving trip, which I
mostly did with another new ALT who lives near Okayama and Kurashiki, where I
spent Sunday. Although we trained in Okayama, all our work was during prime
tourist-y hours, so we didn’t get out much. This time my friend and I made up
for that, as we went to Korakuen (one of Japan’s three most famous gardens—I’ve
already been to Kenrokuen in Kanazawa, so two down, one to go!) and Okayama
Castle. They’re very close, so you get a lovely view of the castle from the
garden and vice versa. The pictures should speak for themselves. Outside the
castle, there were also a bunch of fun workshops going on, and a super cool old
man dressed like a samurai, who we of course posed for intense photos with.
After I introduced my
friend to the glory of Japanese curry (CoCo Curry House, why are you not in my
town?!), we hurried to meet my JET friend at Kurashiki, the city next door that
my high school group had also visited seven years ago. It’s known for the Bikan
Chiku, a.k.a. Canal District, and Ivy Square. The Canal District looks straight
out of Memoirs of a Geisha, mainly
that one town scene near the bridge…in fact, when I first went in high school,
I was convinced that they filmed it there. There are beautiful stone paths and
narrow bridges, weeping willows, a shallow canal, and old white storehouses
that have been converted to shops or museums. There was some special event
called Heartlands Kurashiki (odd since that sounds very American), so there
were a few cool performances. We saw people dressed as oni (ogres) drumming on taiko
as their tiny boat glided up and down the canal. Then after walking around the
Ivy Square, whose buildings were actually blanketed in Ivy, we saw a jazz band
perform there in the middle with a huge audience! Then off to the mall for—you
guessed it—karaoke, with a side of kaiten-zushi
a.k.a. conveyor belt sushi, which is wonderfully common here.
On the morrow (haha,
that doesn’t sound pretentious at all!), we drove further east to Himeji, known
for Himeji Castle, called the most lovely castle in Japan…which is sadly still
undergoing restoration on the main keep that should finish around the end of
our contracts next year in late March. Sigh. But first, we saw the only spot in
town rated higher on Tripadvisor than the famed castle—Engyouji, a serene
temple complex in the mountains. Now I need to re-watch The Last Samurai since they filmed some of it there. We took the
cable car up and back because it was way up the mountain, and ain’t nobody got
time for that. There was plenty of trekking around all the temple buildings,
which were lovely—overall a great side trip for getting your Zen on.
It says a lot about
Himeji Castle that it was still radiant despite the top of the main tower
barely peeking out of the scaffolding. The whole complex is just as elegant as
I remember from high school! (As the first castle I ever saw, it set the bar
pretty high.) Plus we got to learn a lot about the history, including a special
exhibition on this lord named Kuroda Kanbee, whom I’d never heard of in my
life. You learn something new every day, I guess.
That was just about it
for Golden Week. I learned that road trips can be pretty easy and great, and
reaffirmed my belief that humans are a fickle species (I had about four people
cancel during various parts of the trip). Life lessons, hooray!
This is getting
absurdly long so I’ll catch you guys up in the next post. Even more fun stuff
has happened since May 4th a.k.a. Star Wars Day for the geeks out
there. Tune in next time for sketchy guys at da klubz, racial profiling, and chorus and ballroom dancing with grandmas and grandpas!
Over and out.
Over and out.
Kobe from city hall. Not pictured: harbor |
Kobe's Chuukagai (Chinatown) with zodiac statues |
For kimchi aficionados only |
See? Rock fists! |
And this wasn't even the final encore... (I think) |
Matsue Castle with teachers from my training group |
The Genbaku Dome, a rare remnant of pre-bomb Hiroshima |
Strolling through Korakuen |
Okayama Castle, seen from the bridge to Korakuen |
...And the view from atop Okayama Castle |
Oni-daiko: taiko-drumming ogres! |
Main building at Engyoji: One of Himeji's best-kept secrets |
Himeji Castle, why you do dis to my heart...? You know I still love you though |