"Tokyolo?" Er....Nope

This entry was started on the way to Tokyo Station from Narita Airport because I felt the need to passive-aggressively document the ridiculous and somewhat clueless group of 4 college kids in front of me on the train. First piece of gold: “Tokyolo!” (a strange bastardization of Tokyo and YOLO which I would only ever say ironically. I hope for their sakes they were saying it ironically, though something in my heart tells me they weren’t.)

Also, “Whoa, I totally didn’t realize this is a legit train” (referring to it being spacious forward-facing seats instead of subway-style … yeah kids, Japan takes things up a notch.) They were also congratulating themselves for even making it onto the train in the first place (partly due to a communication breakdown where they didn’t realize it was assigned seating). They also were relieved that everything had English written on it…but then realized that might be because it’s the airport. I hope those guys brought their phrasebooks, since they’ll have a hard time finding anyone who can speak fluent English to them…

Next piece of gold: they repeated Shibuya from the list of stops being announced, but said it like “Shi-BOO-yah!” on purpose. And then, “Can someone tell me what ‘buya’ means?” That makes the second time I rolled my eyes and thought kill me now.

Here, why don’t you just have a whole list of selections…

“I also wanna get a samurai sword.” (it’s called a katana)

“I want to bring back a nice pair of chopsticks to show off at a dinner party.”
          “I hope we get lots of Wifi so I can send lots of Snapchats.” (haha, good luck with finding free wifi in Japan!)

“I feel like we’re already Tokyo Drifting!” “Hashtag YOLO Tokyo Drift!”

Apparently they’re on some kind of organized trip, because they were talking about the itinerary and ditching certain tour stuff. That’s good for them because it seems like they don't know a lick of Japanese... But hey, they all ordered Asahi from the drink cart and predicted being hungover on the last day, so they'll probably just be drinking their whole trip away anyway.

Anyway, now back to our regularly scheduled programming. You have to strengthen your resolve before embarking on a 13-hour flight, that’s for sure. And preferably get minimal sleep the night before to force you to fall asleep there…which wasn’t a problem this time since my first flight was at 6 AM and I got about 4 hours of sleep. Also, I’m pretty sure Katy Perry’s “I’m Wide Awake” was written on or inspired by an international overnight flight because good lord, it is near impossible to get any quality shuteye, even after taking melatonin pills. I got less than 2 hours, I think, and the sad part is that’s as good as or better than my track record with flights to or from Japan so far (this is my 7^th). Maybe that’s an economy class thing?

A word to the wise: if you enjoy food, avoid taking Air Canada, unless you will eat almost anything. They seemed to think vegetarian and vegan were the same thing, since my bland meals lacked egg or dairy, but I guess that makes them healthier at least … and they also think that if you are vegetarian, then you have to have quinoa for both your main and side dish. Quinoa everything! I think I’m good on that for a while.

Other than that, both my flights were fine, with a good entertainment selection—I pretty much watched nonstop movies (Last Vegas, Anchorman, Captain Phillips, and Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom. I should have watched them in reverse order so the comedy of the first two would ease the tension from the others. By the way, this may offend you, but I didn’t actually find Anchorman that funny… sorry not sorry).

Time for sleep because those 2 hours just aren't cutting it.

Another Year: The Saga Continues

Hi again readers!

Yes, it's been a while. You thought I was done with this blog after study abroad, right? Hardly. Of course I was going back to Japan! I've decided to repurpose this blog from my study abroad days in Kyoto and use it to give updates on my year teaching English in Miyoshi.

Long story short, I went back to Tufts for senior year, graduated in 2013, and then got a job as an ALT (Assistant Language Teacher) with Interac -- kind of like JET, but a private company. After many months of anticipation, the time has come--I'm about to start my week of job training! It's in Okayama, the capital of Okayama Prefecture, and a surprisingly urban city given its rural surroundings. It starts on Monday March 24th, and we leave for our placements on Sunday March 30th. One of Japan's three most famous and beautiful gardens is there, so hopefully we won't be too busy to see that!

When that's done, I'll be all settled into Miyoshi, a city of just over 56,000 in Hiroshima Prefecture, just over an hour north of Hiroshima, the capital city (which, in contrast, has a little over 1 million, so almost the size of Kyoto). I don't know details about the apartment, but it's sure to be tiny, and I'll be helping teach elementary and middle school students. Here's some more info on the city.

And with that, it's time to sign off, since my layover in Toronto is almost up. I'm off to change huge wads of USD to yen so I don't have to worry about it there (it will come in quite handy -- Japan is very much a cash society), and then board the plane to Tokyo! I'm staying there overnight and exploring a bit before we have to be at the training hotel on Sunday night. A 3.5 hour ride on the shinkansen should give me some extra time to prepare my intro lesson.

See you on the other side.

The End, Part 2: Reflections (反省)

When it comes down to it, you really can’t quite describe the way it feels to leave a country you’ve resided in for almost a year and finally go back home. The closer you get to the date, the more you start resisting it and throwing an inner temper tantrum (“iya da! Iya daaa!”) because you realize how close you are to having your entire life for the past several months completely stripped away and replaced with a different one. That includes all the bonds you’ve made with fellow exchange students, Japanese peers, teachers, and host families; your daily routine; the things you eat; the things you see on the street or on TV; the language being spoken around you; the mindset; and…yeah, pretty much everything.

Even for those who like change, it can be somewhat daunting and jarring. Even if you’ve had pangs of homesickness, it doesn’t make it any easier to part ways with comrades from club activities, or people going to school across America from you. I’ve resolved to come back starting next summer to teach with the JET program—mark my words!—but that still seems so far away. And there’s no guarantee where I’ll be placed…I could be worlds away from Kyoto.

And now I’ve been back for over two weeks and I already can’t believe how long ago my final lunch with my Japanese class (a bento box picnic at a fork in the Kamo River) feels...but it was only a month ago. There is minimal reverse culture shock because home/America is like my template for everything. Okay, maybe it’s still a little weird to see such huge cars—SUVs are not a thing there—and people—everyone in Japan is roughly the same slender body type. It’s nice to have trash cans everywhere, but I miss the convenience of pre-warmed toilet seats, vending machines on every block (selling hot milk tea and coffee!), and being able to walk into a convenience store and buy a beer or a cheap snack like an onigiri (rice ball with fillings). It’s definitely nice being able to drive again, though—I had a love-hate relationship with the Kyoto city bus system that was more hate than love.

When seeing old friends up at Tufts, I got asked “How was Japan?” a lot. That is a lot harder to answer than you’d think. I should’ve come up with some witty summary, but in most cases I said it was not as weird as people made it out to be, but still sort of crazy and of course awesome, then shared an anecdote or two (like the time these random Japanese guys paid for some of us to dress up in cosplay and do karaoke with them. Yep, that was a night to remember). If I could have shared something I’ve learned off the top of my head, I guess I would have said that while it’s hard for an outsider to fit into Japanese culture, we’re really not as different as it seems. The people I met over there enjoy a good meal like us (albeit more mayo-filled), and a drink with friends just like us (emphasis on the drink), and procrastinate and have crushes and insecurities and think it’s awkward when an ex puts up pictures with their new boy/girl on Facebook.

The only thing separating us folks of different countries from bonding with each other is the language barrier, which is why I want to keep working on my Japanese until I’m fluent and can make more long-lasting ties. I also want to help teach English to kids there so that there is less of this anxiety towards English that prevents Japanese people from becoming real friends with Westerners, and from going abroad.

Language connects people. That’s why I’m gonna keep improving, even more than I did this past year, which was a lot, but still. Onward and upward.

That’s all for now, and I hope you guys enjoyed reading this to the very end. I could have updated more in second semester, but I got all busy and I’m sorry about that. Blogging stuff from abroad is hard because you want to share everything, so it’s a daunting task. Still worth it.

See you next time—maybe when I’m a JET. Peace.

In the Osaka Museum of History. Why so serious?

The End, Part 1: List of Special Achievements Unlocked While in Japan

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So I’m home now. Le sigh. I wish I knew how to quit you, Japan. ;_;
But anyway, here is some pretty cool stuff I did (in no particular order):

• Ate Christmas cake as my birthday cake with my family on a shinkansen (bullet train)
• Saw a Lizst-themed classical concert at the famous temple Kiyomizudera, all lit up at night (thanks host mom!)
• Saw apprentice geisha dancing and playing instruments expertly in a lovely theater in Gion (thanks again, host mom!)
• Petted a capybara (they feel like hay, but are cute and chill)
• Had a hairclip stolen by a sneaky squirrel-monkey:

• Had a ridiculous night with some classmates involving cosplay and deluxe karaoke, paid for by some weird random nihonjin guys
• Wrote an essay in Japanese (for a class other than language class)
• Got interviewed about farts by a random Japanese comedian in a black bodysuit:

• Performed in 2 choir concerts with the esteemed Kyoto University Gasshoudan
• Sang "I’m Yours" with 2 American friends at an in-choir event—and won the grand prize by popular vote (Watch here)
• Soaked in hot springs in the snow, and later in a windy cove by the water
• Went to KOREA! Without really knowing any of the language.
• Walked around the city in kimonos for free with my KCJS buddies, staring at the plum blossoms and also getting stared at:

• Went to a J-Rock festival and saw 3 of my favorite bands in one day
• Worshiped at the shrine where the sun goddess Amaterasu is housed in Ise
• Made Valentine’s chocolate for the first time:

• Led the search for my dad’s missing passport all over Tokyo (he did not get it back)
• Signed the emperor’s birthday registry (it's the one on the far left):

• Went on a date with a cute Japanese guy
• Dispelled stereotypes to said guy, such as the American diet consisting of burgers and Coke
• Got prize money for being one of four people in KCJS to “exemplify the spirit of the program” (which apparently had something to do with throwing myself into my CIP activity, the choir)
• Lugged over 100 pounds of stuff back home, with a transfer in San Fran ("Strong women, strong girls!")

(Late Post, February) "Clever Putty"

Oh jeez! Sorry guys, I realized I typed up this post back in late January or early February and forgot to complete it. Well, better late than never! Eheh...

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So here's the lowdown. Not much has happened the first couple weeks of the semester except that my coffee dependency has reignited and is back with a vengeance. Oh, and that women's issues class in Japanese that I mentioned? No assignments so far, and it will probably stay that way. SWEET. I just have to understand what the teacher says and the handouts she gives us. (Is this the life of a real Japanese college student? According to my sources, it is. Lucky bastards! Just kidding, they go through hell to get into college, so it's even.)

I do have a couple vignettes though. Yesterday I went with some friends for lunch at our awesome Thai place ("Asian Restaurant"). The previous time, I had tried to order this Thai red curry with pork and vegetables on rice, just without the meat. When I asked the waitress, she acted awkward and told me it wouldn't taste good. (まずい。おいしくない。) I pressed the issue a little bit but gave up and ordered something else.

But this time my resolve was strong! I was back for a rematch and I was going to win! Rachelle told me to put my foot down, like literally put it on the table, that'd show them. As it turns out, I didn't need to go that far. The same waitress came and I asked for the same thing, and she pulled the whole "it's not tasty" thing again, but I explained that I had ordered the green curry without meat before and liked it, and now I wanted to try this one. After struggling a bit and saying she didn't know if they could make it, she asked another nearby employee something in Thai, and then told me they could. Yesss, thank God. And then I ate every bite because guess what, it was friggin' delicious. Take that! (Clearly the lady has never tried anything vegetarian before.)

After that victory, we dashed frantically and uncomfortably back to campus ("curry running," we called it) for the Friday afternoon Kyoto Artisans class, where Akira Kurosaki, a woodblock print craftsman, had set up his stuff to do a demonstration! Holy shizznit! After lecture-type stuff, he showed us how he carves a block and how he gets the ink onto the paper in different layers. Then we got to try our own with black ink! Sooo cool! Mine weren't the best, but they are now hanging in my room. Oh, and when our teacher Bethe-sensei kept mentioning the Silly Putty (a.k.a. sticky-tack) he was using to hold the board down, at one point he just smiled and said, "Not silly. It is very clever." Bahahaha. Mr. Kurosaki, you are awesome.

Also on Friday, I escorted two of my friends to Kyodai choir practice, which they seemed to really enjoy! It was my first time seeing the choir since Dec. 18-ish, so it was nice going around and saying hi to the gang again. Three more KCJSers are coming next week, so it'll basically be a gaijin takeover. Woohoo! On another note, although it's already been a month since b-day/Christmas, got the Happy Birthday song sung to me by the altos and then later by everyone--me and this other guy sat in the middle, which was equal parts nice and embarrassing. I also had to sing a part in this song from the choir book called Vive la Compagnie that birthday peoples always sing. It was really high and I was nervous so I flubbed the lyrics at first (I can read, promise!), but did alright when the conductor let me start over. It was so.... gaaahhh, why is there no word for awkward in Japanese?

以上です！ That's all for now folks.

Hisashiburi (Long Time No Write): Winter Break Tales

So it's been a while...no, I don't expect you to forgive me. From now on I'll probably do mini-posts so this blogging thing doesn't seem as daunting for a lazy arse like me.

I guess we should get this catch-up over with, then...End of the semester was stressful as usual, but also sad due to all the fall students leaving. Immediately after the closing ceremony/luncheon at the nearby Bon Bon Cafe, I headed out to the airport with three friends...and went to KOREA! Woohoo! I wasn't there for more than a few days, but I want to go back sometime after I've actually learned some of the language, and when it's not the dead of winter. (Thanks, Seoul, for nearly giving me frostbite.) I've been describing it to my Japanese compadres as "like Japan's cousin," but to my native English-speaking peeps I've said it's like an alternate reality Japan with some China thrown in there somewhere. I mean, obviously it has its own culture too; that's just the impression I got. We saw Busan (port city) and Seoul and had a great time (went to lookout towers in both cities, haha).

Angel-in-Us Coffee (appears in City Hunter!) :3 The interior was adorable...and three floors

 ...and Christmas tree in a square in Busan!

N Seoul Tower. Imagine this amount of city-ness in 360 degrees. Whoaaa.

There was a plethora of cute cafes (they love koppi! aka coffee), pretty Christmas lights/decorations, and couples. Well, surely there's couples in Japan too; they just do a damn good job of hiding it. Like ninjas. (Woo, stereotypes~) We also went to a club--my first real one--called Cocoon which was basically epic squared.

Oh, and then Kim Jong-Il died just in time for me to get out of the area beforehand, ehehe.

On another note, I'm afraid of my budding addiction to K-dramas--two friends from the trip got me and the other friend hooked on City Hunter afterwards, which is sort of the Korean Batman plus Death Note cat-and-mouse plus a revenge plot, romance and humor, but even better than it sounds. Now after whipping through that, I'm on a period drama called The Princess's Man, but I'm worried nothing will ever make me feel the same again. Sigh.... (Well, it'll be okay; I thought the same thing after finishing FMA: Brotherhood. And I'm fine now.) I mean, check out the soundtrack here--so BAMF.

Love it like a fat kid loves cake. No, like a heroin addict needs their fix. Too bad it's over...

Then there was the Kyodai Choir Christmas-kai (Xmas party?) that I helped plan for, involving small group performances of songs, skits, etc., plus party games (like musical chairs), with small prizes at the afterparty afterwards. It was a 大成功 (big success)!

Few days of rest, and then off to Tokyo to meet my dad and be his guide before the rest of my family showed up! Helped him with some meetings and got to do some sightseeing, which was great until he lost his passport. Urgh. (For the love of Jizo, why can't the adults be responsible?!) So that wasted some time, and we missed the Emperor's speech at the Palace on his birthday, but made it in time to sign our names in his birthday registry.

Mine's the far left--it says my name and Amurrcuh. Yeah!

The others showed up and we were total tourists and went to Tokyo Tower (right next to the hotel, how can we not go?). My family basically Gaijin Smashed all over Japan, with my sister eating more seaweed packs per day than a chain smoker smokes , and my brother proclaiming everything "honorable" or "dishonorable," and my mom and dad just generally being awkward and speaking random phrases (i.e., domo arigatou--which no one says, it's arigatou gozaimasu). From Tokyo we went to Hakone (on Christmas/my birthday mind you, so it was stressful, but we ate "Christmas cake" on the bullet train so it's okay), where we stayed at a mountain ryokan (Japanese inn) near Lake Ashinoko (with a fake pirate ship and a cablecar, whee!) with onsen/hot springs and elaborate kaiseki meals. Getting used to the whole nakey thing was hard for them (I totally understand that feeling), but eventually even my sister was willingly going in. And man was it worth it--so relaxing!

The "money shot": pirate ship, Fuji (in the middle), tori-i (red arch).

Figuring out what the meal was and how to eat it was a feat for us.

Then off to Kyoto, where I showed them the Doshisha campus, Kiyomizu Temple, et cetera...And on my mom's birthday, we went to a monkey park on a mountain and saw adorable baby Japanese monkeys (nihonzaru), then dyed our own indigo T-shirts/banners with white designs at a local craftsman's. Oh, but before that we went to Nara and got attacked by hungry deer (think seagulls in Finding Nemo) and saw one of the world's largest Buddha statues at Todaiji Temple...it was my fourth time, NBD. My dad crawled through a child-sized hole in a pillar that brings you enlightenment in your next life, which finally gave my brother the courage to do so too. Yay!

While we're on the Todaiji subject, next to that pillar there was this little kid who just looks at my dad incredulously and goes "Gaikokujin?" (foreigner?) Which I then point out to him and my siblings, who are of course amused. My dad (who actually knows zero Japanese beyond "domo arigatou") replies, "Nihongo?" (Japanese language?) The kid nods in wonder. Dad corrects himself and goes, "Nihonjin?" (Japanese person?) The kid nods again in amazement, then goes back to his dad.

...I dunno, just thought it was cute and funny. (*⌒―⌒*)

Sure they seem cute, but wait till they see food---like sharks that have smelled blood... 

Yay Gollins at Todaiji. That building's the world's second-largest wooden structure FYI.

We parted ways on New Year's Eve as they went to Tokyo to fly out (there may have been some tears...I seriously miss those guys already), and I went to Kanazawa to crash with a Tufts friend while my host parents visited their parents' homes for the three-day holiday. Tufts folks, hear me: even in Lewis, you are FAR better off than in a Japanese university's international dorm. Just...I don't even. The people I met were really cool, but the weather sucked and there wasn't much to do (as the students agreed) beyond Kanazawa Castle and Kenrokuen (one of the top three Japanese gardens), and maybe karaoke or drinking downtown. Also, snowww. So much of it. And no shoveled sidewalks. (After going there and Seoul, I don't mind the cold in Kyoto nearly as much!) Then the snow followed me back to Kyoto, and there I stayed until...now! I hung out with people a few times though, like when my kouhai (underclassman) from Tufts' JCC came down to visit and we went sightseeing--there were people in gorgeous kimono for their 成人式 Coming-of-Age ceremony! And we went to Fushimi Inari, a shrine dedicated to the fox god up on a hill. You've seen it in Memoirs of a Geisha--the one with aaaalll the orange tori-i arches.

Hatsumoude--first shrine visit on New Year's...so crowded! 

Awesomeness of Kenrokuen, take 1

Awesomeness of Kenrokuen, take 2

And then the new spring semester students showed up, we had some getting-to-know-you dinners, and here we are in the first week of class. Huzzah! (Here we go again...) This time I'm going to take a course on women's issues in Japanese--woah snap, can she handle it? Find out next time on Natasha's Awkward Adventures!

Magic, or Kyodai Gasshoudan 82nd Annual Winter Concert

Wow. Just…wow. I feel like I bore witness to and took part in something amazing. Never mind the fact that I am shivering from cold and hangover as I write this.

I spent about 20 hours with choir people on Sunday—an epically long day that was the culmination of everything I had worked towards in my CIP (Community Involvement Project) since joining the choir in late September.  All the extra catch-up practices on top of the two regular weekly ones, and the retreat, and the dress rehearsal, it all led up to this, the year’s biggest event: the Kyodai Gasshoudan 82^nd Teiki Ensoukai (Regular/Scheduled Concert). I feel like it went really well and I wouldn’t do anything differently!

…Well, the day did start off a little hectic as I was supposed to wake up around 6:20 to get to the concert hall in Joyo (area south of Kyoto) by 9, but somehow my alarm didn’t go off and I woke up sleepily and then had a heart attack when my phone said 8:05. (Even though I had been thinking, “I am DEFINITELY not going to be late for this!” …Oy vey…) But I got there around 10:30 and quick-changed into Uber Ugly Costume and joined the girls still doing warm-ups and ridiculous exercises, just like always.

The rest of the day went according to the meticulous schedule given out to us. There were some final announcements and a few words exchanged among the voice parts—I was bad at improvising mine for the altos, but oh well. My crazy Westernized alto friend who was sick managed to show up about 45 minutes before the show started at 3, which was a relief since I wasn’t sure if she was gonna be able to come.

Finally we walked onstage for the Kyodai “E-ru” (jisho.org says “yell” or “cheerleading shout”), which is the choir’s theme song. I was in the front row and had just barely learned it, but whatever! I think it was okay! Maybe. And then the real thing began…

I wish I could say we all looked really snazzy, but I can’t say that about the girls. The costume is just not flattering…one of my friends who attended feels the same. It looks like wearing a white trash bag with a cheap corsage tucked into a long and shapeless black skirt. The guys looked way hotter than us—black pants with white shirt and blazer and red ties (ow-ow!). Then there was Miyako, the girls’ conductor, wearing a beautiful crimson A-line gown that had a couple of shoulder-slip wardrobe malfunctions during the women’s pieces…scandalous! And the conductor for the mixed pieces, Sally, who looks like a little girl, was wearing a tiny tux, which was basically the coolest and cutest thing ever.
No fair. We need to petition for better women’s choir outfits…

Anyway, the girls’ pieces in Japanese—a set called Hikari to Kaze wo Tsurete, “Going with Light and Wind”—were gorgeous as always. We couldn’t watch the guys’ songs since we had to do stretches, but we’d seen them at the dress rehearsal before. My friends, like I, thought their pieces were a little weird—one was about a small fish and one was about a serious man, walking seriously, crying seriously…and then killing someone seriously. Japan, man oh man, are you effed up sometimes.

Finally it was time for the slightly odd mixed pieces in Hungarian by Kodaly—two short and one really long one. I didn’t remember every single word, but I faked it well when I didn’t! Yay. And then the magic happened! I was already trying to be expressive with my face, but by the time the last one finished, I couldn’t keep the grin from my face and my eyes. As we continued into the encore (my favorite—it’s got a lovely melody and bittersweet yet happy romantic lyrics in Japanese), I just kept on beaming brighter than the stage lights, trying to share my happiness and satisfaction with the audience.

As soon as it ended, we walked off and then ran from backstage to the lobby to sing a couple of just-for-fun songs as people came out: men’s, women’s and mixed. Man, it was weird singing spirituals from the slave days surrounded by Japanese accents. Oh, and the Lupin the Third theme song with the girls. We sang one more and then hummed it as the PR boy and girl thanked everyone, then people started getting tossed in the air. There was so much love! On top of that, I saw my Japanese teacher saying hi from the audience and thanked her profusely, and then I saw my KCJS buds and Japanese friend coming through the crowd. I was so darn happy I just hugged them all—who cares if that’s not how they do things here? They had to skedaddle, but it was good even just seeing them for a bit.

After that people gathered their things, including goodie bags filled with dan-pure (dan purezento, or choir present) and rolled out. Those gifts are so adorable—it’s like secret Santa, except you make cute little notes to people and put it with a small gift or treat and distribute them to people’s bags. I’ve gone through most of mine now and it feels like Christmas came early, despite it having nothing to do with Christmas—so much love! I got stuff from people who I haven’t even talked to and people whose names I can’t match with faces. Now I feel sort of bad I only had time to make little ones for the altos, but that’s still a lot—19 people! Now imagine making stuff for 80!

So we all took the train up to the location of the reception, a large floor of an izakaya with dinner tables and couches and whatnot. Now this was not quite the afterparty I was expecting—it was more like a wedding reception than a wild party like I’m used to. Well, at least I got to sit with a couple of other new recruits, including a fellow alto who likes manga and is really good at drawing but is going to be a nurse. We had some nice good dorky chats. New otaku friend ftw!

Anyway, at this reception, there was alcohol and food, but it was mostly about toasts, congratulations, and present-bestowing at the front of the room. Fairly early on, one announcement from the women’s conductor turned into the men’s conductor proposing to her. Once I figured out what was going on, I was like, “Whoa, they were dating? Wait, what the crap? That’s adorable! But wait, what?? How old are they?” Apparently they’re around twenty-one. Dang!

So things went on like that, and I had lots of umeshu (plum liquor, good stuff) trying to get up the courage to talk to a certain person beyond the awkward interactions we were already having. I wanted to see how the rest of the night would play out, so I go, screw the last bus, I’m sticking around after the reception! Which I would learn was both a good and awful idea.

While the workers were cleaning up the space, people poured beer on two of the tenors while they stood in boxes, though I’m not really sure why. That’s probably the most frat-like thing in Japan I’ve seen. Appropriate, since one of the guys getting beer-ified seems like he could be in a frat. Then people sang more together, and then paused on a certain note as the former conductor called up their successor, hugged them and said things we couldn’t hear, and literally handed off the baton. People were crying, and I was actually pretty moved too. So that happened for men’s, women’s and mixed pieces, and then the PR pair called up their successors. It was so surreal, watching the end of an era.

Afterwards, we went outside until the real afterparty (nijikai) began at 1AM, and braved the cold while we went around the circle and shared some more words with each other. Even a few alumni were there and got all nostalgic! Mine was better this time and I thanked people for taking me in despite being an exchange student, and the fact that I was able to sing in the whole concert was thanks to them, among other things.

Then it was time for the nijikai, which was painfully expensive, but still pretty fun, and a bit more like the party I had expected. Still didn’t get to talk with that one person, but I had some fun times, and when Frat Guy started chilling at our table (these ones were low Japanese-style) I told him how I missed American college parties and how I think he’d probably enjoy them (trololol). We also talked about J-rock some, and a couple of other random dudes around me started chatting as well—it was weird being the center of attention, since I sometimes feel a little left out in choir. After drinking and eating still more, we headed outside at 3 and went to the Kamo River to sing until buses and trains started up. I probably should have taken a taxi home here, but I didn’t want it to end, and after all a cab would be pretty expensive…

We sang some stuff from the book of optional songs, conducted by the new peeps, with people occasionally chilling on the side or going to the convenience store. Eventually the trains started running so people rolled out, as it was really cold, but a couple of nice people stayed with me as I waited for the bus (in the warm train station—hehe I’m smart!) Originally I was going to go straight to campus and survive class, but I changed my mind on the bus and decided to stop at home first. Then my body decided that I was not making it anywhere and that I’d better stay and collapse.

So other than the fact that I’m sort of dead, along with my cell phone (seriously what is wrong), I’m still feeling the afterglow of choir-ness! I won’t see them much until later in January, besides the Christmas party in two weeks, but I feel a much stronger bond with them now. But damn, I am never staying out all night in the cold again. Not even the liquid jacket helped me there… There was also no liquid courage, but maybe being in Japan sucks that out of you and makes you repressed? OTL

Well, enough vague references for now, I have to go freak out about schoolwork—it’s the last official week of class! (Help. Please. Anyone.)

[*Update: that cell phone battery thing did not get better and resulted in me having to go through the hellish prepaid-phone-buying-process over again. uugh.]

Awkward Moments, Part II

Random aside: It’s Thanksgiving today, and my first one away from home. Man, do I miss crazy loud extended family and pumpkin pie and mashed potatoes…oh and did I say pumpkin pie? ;P

So, I’ve been off the radar for a little while. Got busy and lazy at the same time—the continuous paradox that is my life. Well, lazy in regards to writing this stuff up, that is.

Here’s a quick summary before we get back to our regularly scheduled program. For fall break (right after the previous entry), I was one of the many groups of KCJSers that headed off to the Tokyo area. Night bus for the win! It’s cheap and you don’t have to pay for an extra night’s bed. But I do not recommend it if you have just gotten sick the previous night. Actually, I don’t recommend traveling at all in that case. But shikatanai (c’est la vie)…Anyway, we did cool stuff like nerd out in Akihabara, where all the gamers and otaku go—there’s even a Gundam Café there. Didn't actually go; just thought that was worth noting. Actually, we ended up going to one of the many maid cafes, despite being a group of six girls. It was themed after a bunny burrow and ... kind of adorable. They were even wearing Halloween colors~

The bulletin board. They didn't allow photos inside because it would "scare the bunnies," hahaha

My dessert from the bunny cafe! So cute and fruity~

Bustling neighborhood of Shibuya

I also went to Yokohama and met with two alumni from my high school’s sister school, Yokohama Suiran High. We actually went back to see the school for a bit in the evening, which was like a weird trip back in time to my high school sophomore and junior summers! I got to visit my friend from my summer internship, Yukiko, at Keio U on the last day for a bit. Good times! And other than that, my recommendations are Harajuku (crazy style statements everywhere) and Tokyo Disney Sea (it’s not actually a water park; rather, it is simply made of epic), AND—last but not least—the Ghibli Museum just west of the city—it was a magical wonderland of animation and nostalgia. I got to sit in the catbus (from Totoro) and see an adorable short film by Ghibli!

Yes, a Gundam Cafe exists. In Akihabara (where else? haha)

Recognize this guy? Hint: Castle in the Sky

Yep, magical wonderland.

Condomania in Harajuku. Tempted to go in, but sense got the better of me. (They're saying "Georgee~" "Emilyy~")

The day after getting back, 9 of us—6 Americans and 3 Japanese students—went to Takarazuka to see a show by the ladies of the Takarazuka Revue. It was every bit as campy, flashy, fabulous and gender-bendy as I expected! For further info, see here: http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english/first/index.html

Or here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takarazuka_Revue

We saw this double feature: Classico Italiano and Nice Guy

Then it was back to business as usual, except the following weekend we had a choir retreat (which was a little pricey, but oh well). It was mostly work and little play, but there were some gossipy conversations later in the evening. Namely, I found out that a bunch of the choir members are actually in relationships—with each other. So I’m like, whoa, what? W, when—how does this happen? It doesn’t seem like there’s much chance for male-female interaction the way things are set up. Plus they’re all really nerdy and awkward like me! Clearly there’s something I’m doing wrong here. Please, tell me, oh wise Kyodai students! Also, there were no individual showers, so I had to go through that whole awkward-nakey-time bathing thing with the girls. (At least I haven’ t had to do that for over three years.) Pro tips: cover whatever possible with hands and keep eyes down or unfocused. That saves you the most embarrassment.

And other than school stuff, that’s…about it. Yup. See y’all next time. Now presenting part 2 of “That Awkward Moment When…”

…the reading is on Japanese women in an underwear factory, and the class discussion turns to which bra makers people prefer. No, the professor in that class has no shame.

…you go into a weekend retreat of choir practice thinking you’ll get to talk to a certain someone, but since you are both shy and awkward, that just does not happen.

(small lapse of time…then the events from within the past week or so):

…your host dad sneaks some natto (Japanese fermented soybeans that smell like compost and taste like death) into an omelet as a side dish, and you can only eat one of the three slices. At least he gave some warning beforehand!

…a random old man taps you and your friend on the shoulder at the bus stop in front of school and says, “Welcome to Japan!”, then  once he knows you’re American, proceeds to tell you about how he lived in Texas in the 1960s and witnessed Kennedy’s assassination, among other things, before you get on the bus. It was kind of awesome, actually.

…a semi-new member of the choir finds out you are a junior, hence older than her, and apologizes for having said anything too informal/not using keigo (respectful language) and the like. Girl, I’m American! That shyte makes us uncomfortable! Call me Natasha and talk to me casually please for Pete’s sake.

…you go to sit in the back of the bus and a special needs guy turns around in his seat and just stares at you…and stares. (At least he’s more up-front about in than other Japanese who will just take little glances at you or look from the corners of their eyes.)

Awkward Moments

This is a new and mostly humorous segment of The Gaijin Diaries (alternate title: "Oh Goodness, What Is My Life"). Seeing as my life and I are quite awkward, there will probably be similar posts in the future.
These are all things that have happened the past couple weeks, except the foundation one.

That awkward moment when…

…the buses are late and everything else in Japan is on time.

…there’s an empty seat on the full bus or train, but no one is taking it, perhaps out of politeness although they clearly want to, and you’re too far to take it yourself. (Come on guys, the seat’s going to waste!)

…you realize that when you’ve been telling the cashier at the convenience store that you don’t need a plastic bag, you’ve been saying “mother” (o-fukuro) instead of “bag” (fukuro).

…you’re in Osaka with some peeps, and a group of Americans/Japanese comes up and asks for help on a scavenger hunt, and you help them and another group as well, and you see the first group again, and it turns out the two are mortal enemies. (We have no loyalties!!)

…you suddenly look around on the train back from Osaka and realize you’re inside a women’s-only car—yes, they do exist—and there’s some random dude standing at the far end of the car who just did not get the memo.

…you’re in the store, replacing another of the items that was in your lost makeup bag, and with the shop lady’s help you finally choose the right eye shadow—but she also asks if she can help with foundation while you’re at it. (Yes lady, my skin is not the best, I know, don’t rub it in. I already have some foundation, but don’t wear it all the time. Mind yo’ business!)

…your American professor sometimes says phrases in Japanese that sound really, really American, and you want to laugh, and then one of your classmates actually does.

…you’re half-taking a nap in the tatami room in the new awesome building while your friend is studying, then you realize there is a boy holding up a sign on the other side of the table, and he and some cute friends are interviewing  your friend in Japanese…then realize you woke up with crazy sleep-hair and look totally bewildered. (A wild gaijin appeared! What will you do?)

…you’re at the optional-singing-for-the-heck-of-it part after your chorus practice, and the boys suddenly break into an American spiritual from the slave days in perfect harmony…with Japanese accents. (and you’re stifling laughter and no one will ever know why…)

…you come back on Sunday night from the first chorus bonding/nomihoudai and subsequent karaoke, still a little drunk, and your host parents have been drinking wine and are in good spirits, and ask if you’ve found a boyfriend yet and say they’re looking forward to it and will want to meet him. (Whoa what?) And also when they say don’t worry about coming home late and they’ll only worry if you don’t come home at all, especially the host dad—and especially if you’re with a guy. Or maybe they were encouraging that? Don’t remember. Either way, aaawkward times!

…a Japanese friend asks you about prom at the aforementioned chorus party, and you tell her, and then she asks what you did after. “Uh…go home?” (it wasn’t that kind of a prom… //foreveralone)

…almost everyone is in a group of friends (well, clique really) except you. (//foreveralone again)

…you ask your host dad why your host mom hasn’t seen the thank you card you left for her, and he says she’s on a business trip to Tokyo till tomorrow. You don’t know when she left. (//foreveralone still…)

…you are alone in your homestay some days from when you come home till you go to sleep, and everyone’s Facebook statuses and pictures are of their crazy families and cute pets. (also //foreveralone)

…you get all excited about monthly allowance from the KCJS office, only to find that textbook deductions took out more than half of it.

…some friends in chorus  let you know that the color purple, your favorite, is somewhat of an erotic symbol in Japan. And you’ve been wearing a purple backpack, among other things.

…your throat starts hurting like a mofo the day before your night bus to Tokyo, and it’s Saturday so none of the many local clinics are open. (also an FML)

Things They Don’t Tell You

Here are some things no one tells you about Japan right off the bat, which may be helpful for those of you planning to come here at some point. And for those who aren’t, well, I hope it’s interesting. (And you should come. I don’t take no for an answer!) Some of these are somewhat complain-y, but they’re really overarching truths that I’ve observed.

1.        The Japanese like to drink…far, far more than you might think. Nomihoudai or “all-you-can-drink” is a fairly common way of going out and getting plastered. I’ve seen guys chugging pitchers of beer…seriously, American frat boys gotta step up their game!

2.        Makeup is wildly expensive here. Do not lose your makeup bag at the abovementioned drinking establishment—or anywhere, really—for you will regret it.  ¥1100 for a fairly small eye shadow, one shade…that’s just over $14, folks. Similar prices for eyeliner that doesn’t work very well.

3.        Fruit is also more expensive than it should be—many apples cost over $1. It’s much more common to have a giant fluffy piece of buttered white bread toast at breakfast than a nice ripe orange or apple. Same goes for peanut butter—it’s pricey and hard to find, and there’s none of the natural “just peanuts” kind.

4.        Which brings me to the next point—no whole grain anything, ANYWHERE. And we KCJSers are wondering why we’re hungry all the time, and some of us are gaining weight…or at least I am.

5.        Speaking of which, you are not guaranteed to lose weight here, even if you walk around a lot. The food is not actually as healthy as it is portrayed in “common knowledge” about Japan. The convenience stores sell fatty meat curry in fried bread, for Pete’s sake. And don’t forget the mayo everywhere! (it was hiding in my sushi one time….yick.)

6.        Okay, it’s a lot about food, but being pesco-vegetarian here is a lot less convenient and more surprising to people than I’d thought. While there’s a decent amount of seafood and veggies (and CARBS), meat shows up in a lot of cuisine. And people really just don’t understand why you wouldn’t eat it, other than disliking the taste of it. C’mon people, I’ve done this since elementary school, calm down.

7.        In public bathrooms, there is nothing to dry your hands on, and sometimes no soap. So carry some Purell! Also, a lot of people bring a little hand towel with them…very handy indeed. (No pun intended. I hate puns…unless they’re in Japanese, then it’s interesting to figure them out. Teehee.) Also, best of luck finding a Western-style toilet...yeah.

8.        In contrast to the very nice but somewhat awkward Kyoto U students in my choir, the students at Doshisha, and many people elsewhere in the city, are super oshare, or stylish. Even if you wear your cutest clothes—or suavest, for you menfolk—you may still feel underdressed.

9.    Riding a bike can be scary--I’m pretty sure I’ve almost died a few times. There’s not much space, since the sidewalks and little side roads are narrow, there’s poles in the way, and of course there’s pedestrians, cars, moped riders, and other bikers. Plus the bikes are designed in this way that makes you sit straight upright. Craziness.

10.    If someone compliments you on your Japanese, it is probably not sincere. Specifically, the earlier they say it, the less sincere it is. One of my classmates said that his host family was oh so amazed at how “fluent” he was right after saying “Douzo yoroshiku onegaishimasu” (similar to “Nice to meet you”). Stop lying to us, people! Actually, when we discussed this in class, the prof concluded that it was just a perfunctory thing to make the Japanese person saying it feel comfortable because they’re “supposed” to say it. The result from the Japanese students taking the class was silence or small awkward laughter. Bingo!

11.    On that note, another thing that you’ll hear fairly soon from many people here, despite them being so reserved otherwise, is the question "Do you have a boyfriend/girlfriend?" So far I’ve heard this from my host parents, their friends who came to the mini-welcome party, a nice old obaachan (granny) I’ve met a couple times on the bus, and a girl in the Kyodai choir who’s befriended me. That’s not counting all the people who asked when I came here in high school. Each time they ask, the answer’s been no, so it’s getting a bit embarrassing. Do they just do this to Westerners or what?

This has been “Natasha’s meager attempts at giving you an insider’s education on Japan.” Hope you enjoyed it!